With branching big seedlings to build garden pruning method
With the introduction of European apple management technology, a new round of apple cultivation technology changes swept the country. A large number of new technologies have been introduced into China, such as the establishment of branches and large seedlings, dense planting of short dwarfs, high-spindle-shaped plastic surgery, grid systems, and integrated management of fertilizer and water. For the newly planted apple tree with branching big seedlings to build the tree during the winter pruning, different people have different opinions. Some people cut all the branches of the fruit tree, that is, the so-called "lighting rod," and some people also carried out short-cut promotion of lateral branches, sparse branches and open floors in accordance with traditional practices. As for how to cut trees with branching trees, we have made some attempts in winter and spring.
We Baoji Huasheng Co., Ltd. plans to build a 5000-mu modern dwarf anvil planting apple plantation. In 2014, the first batch of imported seedlings landed smoothly and achieved very good results through one year of management. The average tree height increased from 1.65 m at the time of planting to 2.35 m before winter shearing. The average dry thickness increased from 1.4 cm to 2.4 cm at the time of colonization, and the average number of branches increased from 12 to 29 at the time of colonization. 19 flower buds formed. We began pruning in mid-December, as follows.
First, pruning principle
The orchard cultivar is Mi Xie La (European Dora). It adopts a wide-row dense planting pattern. The row spacing is 3.5 meters and 1 meter. The height of the spindle is shaped. The final height of the tree is controlled at about 3.3 meters, and the strong central leadership is trained. , 40-50 branches distributed equally in size and length. The orchard has good fertilizer and water conditions. It has drip irrigation for 17 times a year, including 11 fertigation treatments. Fruit trees grow well and the trees are robust. The growth target for the second year of planting was a 95 cm increase in tree height, 15 branches, and more than 60 effective flower buds. Based on the above conditions, we have formulated the following pruning principles:
1. Light-cut long-distance, mainly to eliminate. The core task of planting in the second year of management is to promote the transformation of fruit trees from vegetative growth to reproductive growth as soon as a certain amount of vegetative growth is achieved. At the same time, the use of fruit to control tree growth prevents the fruit tree from growing too high and being too large. To this end, the pruning method adopted in the current year to moderately suppress vegetative growth and moderate tree vigor, specifically, light-cutting, long-distance release, and sparseness-based culling, culminating in 2-3 branches in each tree and culling The other branches will be put slowly without cutting, and some of the branches with more vigorous growth can be pulled after the spring.
2. Uniaxial extension, leaving no side branches. For branches growing in the stem, uniaxial extension is used, leaving no side branches.
3. Keep flower buds as much as possible. During the pruning process, flower buds are retained as much as possible to ensure that there will be a certain amount of production and economic income in the second year, and the tree-trend will be eased accordingly.
Second, pruning method
In this case, the winter pruning method of fruit trees is to dig the branches. When operating, cut the scissors or saws at an angle of 45 degrees (as shown in Figure 1). Cut the upper mouth tightly and dry it, and cut the mouth outwards to about 1.25 cm. The typical response of this kind of pruning is to draw 1-2 mildly inclined flat twigs below or to the side of the incision in the coming year, which can be naturally transformed into fruiting branches.
When there are many branches at the site of thinning and no new shoots need to be cultivated, the slope of shearing can be further increased to reach an angle of about 15 degrees between the trimmed bevel and the vertical direction (see Fig. 2), so that the cut can quickly heal the wound.
Branch types that need to be removed:
1. Remove competition branches. The central leadership has lengthened the head's competitive branches. Due to the small angle, erect branches, and strong growth, it is difficult to reform the branches (very easy to crack), and it has a greater impact on the central leadership and is the object of resolute removal at any time.
2. Remove rough trunks (strands that are more than 1/2 in the trunk and angled). When the angle is vertical, it will grow vigorously and it will be difficult to form flowers. If the branches are too thick, the shape of the tree will be disturbed and the light will be affected.
3. Remove the branches that are too busy and long on the main trunk. As the seedlings are transported and managed in the early stage, some branches will be broken, similar to short cuts, which will stimulate the growth of the shoots and promote a large number of branches, which should be promptly removed.
4. Weed out some of the branches and dense branches on the trunk. The first two years of new sapling management are aimed at rapidly expanding the canopy and increasing the amount of branches. However, for some fruit trees, there will be imbalances in growth from top to bottom, left and right, and there will be a large number of dense and long branches in the trunk. Branches can be selectively removed 1-2.
5. Remove branches that are too low (below 80 cm), too weak, mechanically damaged, and pest-infested on the main trunk, and remove the deformed branches that have formed on the trunk due to pulling branches or other summer management.
6. Sparse the competing branches (branched, trifoliate) of the main branch extension and long branches (greater than 15 cm) on the back of the main branch.
7. Eliminate the strong side branches and back branches (greater than 20 cm) on the main branch and remove the side branches (main branches within 20 cm from the trunk) on the main branch (see Figure 3).
8. Remove or retract the main branches that are weaker and longer, and eliminate the sprouts on the lower rootstocks or varieties.
Third, pay attention to matters
1. Quickly handle the cuts after trimming. Recent studies have shown that the winter trimming of the cut kerf is the main source of rot infection. During winter cut, the fruit trees are in dormant stage and have very weak resistance to pathogens. In winter, the wounds hardly heal, which provides convenience for rot infections. Therefore, immediately after the winter cut, protect the wound with a medicament.
2. Use sharp pruning shears for pruning to ensure that the cuts are smooth and smooth to facilitate wound healing and prevent bacterial infection. If the pile is too short and the wound is too large, it will be difficult to heal; if the pile is too long, a lot of new shoots will sprout and the tree shape will be disturbed.
3. Take a horseshoe-shaped pruning when missing branches, leave about 1.5 centimeters of the pile, and make the lower part of the lower part of the head short, so as to facilitate the opening of the lower part of the triggering point, and the branches that tend to ease. When there is no shortage of branches, the length of the pile should be kept short, so that the upper part should be tightly attached to the trunk and the section of the cut should be the smallest. It's not good if the pile is too long or too short.
4. For trunks with wounds that are difficult to heal, need to reserve upright branches under the wound for head replacement.
Feed Additives,Food And Feed Additives,Additives For Animal Feed,Feed Additives Animal Nutrition
CHANGZHOU GUANGHUI FOOD INGREDIENTS CO.,LTD , https://www.gsweetfood.com